Posts Tagged ‘Ligaya Mishan’

At Tsion Cafe in Harlem, Food From Ethiopia via Israel | NY Times

At Tsion Cafe in Harlem, Food From Ethiopia via Israel | NY Times

By Ligaya Mishan On one side lie eggs scrambled with lox over a drape of injera, the sour, springy Ethiopian flatbread as thin and pliant as a crepe and perforated like coral. On the other side, challah French toast, its egg coating spiked with awaze, a meld of earthy-hot berbere and tej, or Ethiopian honey […]


B & K French Cuisine Brings Paris to Harlem | NY Times

B & K French Cuisine Brings Paris to Harlem | NY Times

By Ligaya Mishan Among the city’s million unseen threads, this one starts at B & K French Cuisine, a tiny Harlem counter with a few metal stools and a kitchen bereft of gas, and leads across the ocean to Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée Paris, where the ceiling rains down Swarovski crystals. There, […]


Sweet Simplicity at Leche y Miel in the Bronx | NY Times

Sweet Simplicity at Leche y Miel in the Bronx | NY Times

By Ligaya Mishan To begin, mofonguitos: green plantains fried, mashed with garlic and olive oil, then popped into a lemon squeezer, making rough cups that look like craters. Into their maws go knots of hot, plump shrimp and a web, quickly melting, of Parmesan. At Leche y Miel Restaurant, in the Kingsbridge section of the […]


Africa Kine in Harlem Returns to Its Humble Roots | NY Times

Africa Kine in Harlem Returns to Its Humble Roots | NY Times

By Ligaya Mishan The restaurant was once named Africa, as if embracing an entire continent, when in fact the focus was on the cooking of the western coast, mainly Senegal. Samba Niang and Kine (pronounced kee-nay) Mar, natives of Dakar, opened its doors two decades ago on the northern side of West 116th Street in […]


Safari Brings Somali Cuisine to Harlem | NY Times

Safari Brings Somali Cuisine to Harlem | NY Times

By Ligaya Mishan On the menu, it is called the Federation Combo: to one side, basmati rice in sunrise shades of orange and gold, with dark tears of stewed raisins on top; to the other, linguine as creamy as Alfredo. In Somalia, the noodles and grains would be more than neighbors, mixed happily together. But […]


Ice-Pop Molds That Contained Walter Youngblood’s Enthusiasm | NY Times

Ice-Pop Molds That Contained Walter Youngblood’s Enthusiasm | NY Times

By LIGAYA MISHAN “I call it the cut-and-paste apartment,” Walter Youngblood, an artist and ice-cream man, said of the fourth-floor walk-up in East Harlem where he’s lived for 20 years. He bartered a painting for the stove and rescued the bashed-in mini-chandelier from the trash. It hangs in the kitchen, which has colonized half the […]


Juan Camilo Makes Sure Dyckman Beer Measures Up | NY Times

Juan Camilo Makes Sure Dyckman Beer Measures Up | NY Times

By LIGAYA MISHAN The first place Juan J. Camilo, the founder of Dyckman Beer Company, attempted to make beer was in the “concise” (as he puts it) kitchen of his one-bedroom co-op in the South Bronx. “It didn’t ferment properly,” he said. His starter home-brewing kit lacked a floating hydrometer, a device that measures the […]


At the Handpulled Noodle, Mom Knows Best | NY Times

At the Handpulled Noodle, Mom Knows Best | NY Times

By LIGAYA MISHAN Ding ding noodles do not look like noodles. A better description may be nubs, knots, lumps: on a spectrum with spaetzle and frascatelli, but rougher, more unpredictable in shape and fantastically chewy. They come from Xinjiang, in China’s far northwest, as does Andrew Ding (the name is a coincidence), who opened the […]


At SpaHa Soul in Spanish Harlem, Camaraderie on a Plate | NY Times

At SpaHa Soul in Spanish Harlem, Camaraderie on a Plate | NY Times

By LIGAYA MISHAN Artist Thornton wore a red apron as he greeted guests at SpaHa Soul, but when asked if he was the chef, he paused. “I’m the ‘chef,’ ” he said with a laugh, fingers pinching the air. He was being modest (a decade ago, he was an executive chef overseeing four restaurants in […]

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