Sweet Simplicity at Leche y Miel in the Bronx | NY Times

By Ligaya Mishan

Leche Y Miel - The Bronx - NY Times - Shrimp

The mofonguitos are finished with shrimp and a web, quickly melting, of Parmesan. (Gregg Vigliotti | NY Times)

To begin, mofonguitos: green plantains fried, mashed with garlic and olive oil, then popped into a lemon squeezer, making rough cups that look like craters. Into their maws go knots of hot, plump shrimp and a web, quickly melting, of Parmesan.

At Leche y Miel Restaurant, in the Kingsbridge section of the Bronx, mofonguitos are gloriously undainty hors d’oeuvres, the plantain base dense but starkly crunchy, the shrimp still preening with heat. They arrive staggered on an angular white plate whose austerity belies the food’s frank pleasures.

In a neighboring bowl may be a more minimalist appetizer of chickpeas boiled with mirepoix and fried so crisp that they pulverize under the teeth. Freckled with smoked paprika, they are a loftier stand-in for bar nuts, the kind of small plate as likely to be found at glossy restaurants downtown as at this quiet Latin spot in the shadow of a McDonald’s, near the end of the No. 1 line.

Rideiby Peña, the chef, and his wife, Altagracia Peña, opened Leche y Miel in December 2014. Both have roots in the Dominican Republic; Mr. Peña grew up there, and Ms. Peña in Washington Heights, where they now live. They attend church nearby, which is how they found the space, a former pizzeria flanked by a Carvel ice cream parlor and a jujitsu studio, facing the elevated train tracks.

Read more: Sweet Simplicity at Leche y Miel in the Bronx | NY Times

Leche Y Miel - The Bronx - NY Times

The grilled churrasco with chimichurri sauce. (Photo: Gregg Vigliotti | NY Times)

Related:

Africa Kine in Harlem Returns to Its Humble Roots | NY Times

Safari Brings Somali Cuisine to Harlem | NY Times

Open For Business: Clove Harlem

At the Handpulled Noodle, Mom Knows Best | NY Times

At SpaHa Soul in Spanish Harlem, Camaraderie on a Plate | NY Times

Hungry City: LoLo’s Seafood Shack in Harlem | NY Times

Hungry City: Abyssinia in Harlem | NY Times

BLVD Bistro – A Taste of Down South, Uptown

El Lina: The Best Little Dominican Restaurant in Washington Heights

El Malecon – A Dominican Cuisine Machine

Uptown Eats: The Best Cuban Sandwich In Washington Heights…

We invite you to subscribe to the weekly Uptown Love newsletter, like our Facebook page and follow us on Twitter, or e-mail us at UptownCollective@gmail.com.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

Leave a Reply